Denim Fit and Fabric Care FAQ
Waxed Canvas FAQ
Straight Leg, Slim fit, or Taper?
All of our jeans use the same top block, or same fit and measurement above the crotch seam. This means all three fits will feel the same for the front and back rise and fit your waist and hips the same across all 3 styles. The changes take place in the thigh, knee, and leg opening.
Straight Leg: "STR" This is a classic straight leg jean. Roomy in the thigh without being baggy, with a mostly straight, but slightly tapered cut down to the leg opening. This will be your best bet if you wear any sort of engineer boots, cowboy boots, or tall, slip-on work boots.
Slim Fit: "SLM" this fit is slightly tighter in the thigh and has a smaller knee and leg opening, allowing a slimmer profile. this pairs well with tennis shoes, Chelsea boots, and other laced or slim shoes.
Taper: "TPR" This fit is basically a combination of the two above. It's our personal perfect jean fit. It has the thigh of the straight leg, with the leg opening of the slim fit, creating a casual fit above the knee with minimal excess fabric at the ankle. this makes for excellent everyday wear.
What size should you buy?
We recommend using our how-to-measure guide to get the best fitting pair. We do use what is called "vanity" sizing, which is just to say we size our pants the same as every large retailer you've probably ever bought from. More-or-less, just order the size you normally buy, but it's best practice to compare a pair of pants that fit you well that you already own to our measurements of each style to get the best fit.
Should I size down?
In general, denim will stretch up to 1" with wear in the waist, and shrink back down with each wash, and then stretch back out again as you continue to wear it. Your jeans should fit snug, but not overtly tight when you first receive them. Please note, some of our thicker fabrics like our 21oz jeans are difficult to button when brand new due to the stiff and thick fabric, until the fabric breaks in a little, but the actual button should be able to reach the buttonhole with relative ease.
If they fit perfect when you release the top button on the waist band, then you bought the right size and it will stretch out to feel the same as they do unbuttoned. If it still feels tight like that, then it may be best to exchange them for the next size up
If you're in between sizes, we recommend sizing to the lower size, but overall, it is totally fine to order the exact size you measure for. Some denims stretch more than others. Our canvas pants, for instance, won't stretch more then half inch, so sizing down isn't wise.
Can I have my jeans hemmed?
All pants come with a 34" inseam. You can specify a custom hem at checkout. Please note, most of our jeans shrink 1" in inseam length after being washed and dried. if you normally wear a 30" inseam, order a 31", if you wear a 32" inseam, order a 33", etc...
Custom hems are free, but they do require an extra few days lead time. Jeans that have been hemmed are FINAL SALE and cannot be returned. If you have your jeans hemmed, you can not return them for any reason, even if they don't fit. We recommend receiving your jeans, then sending them back in to be hemmed once you know they fit well. Shipping both ways to return pants for hemming is the responsibility of the customer.
How should I wash my jeans?
We recommend wearing your jeans often, and washing sparingly, but there always comes a time wet washing is inevitable. To be clear, washing your jeans won't hurt them, but there are best practices to keep them looking and fading the best. These ultra-specific instructions are best while you're still breaking in and developing fades on your jeans, which is generally the first 6months to a year of ownership. After that, just throw them in with like colors as you normally would.
Get a bucket, your washing machine, or your tub and fill it with water, turn your jeans inside out, and soak your jeans for 45-60 minutes with a little bit of mild detergent. Normal detergent is fine, but to keep your jeans darker for longer, use a gentle detergent like a woolite darks. agitate a little by hand towards the end for a few minutes. Hang dry.
Turn your jeans inside out, unroll any cuffs and remove anything from your pockets, wash alone the first time on cold with NO SPIN CYCLE. The spin cycle is the biggest enemy to your jeans. they can set crease lines or marbling into the fabric (look up denim marbling), and --while it isn't the end of the world-- it doesn't look great in my opinion. Hang dry. It can take a day or two to dry sometimes. They will feel stiff, but break right back in within a day.
If you want to shrink your jeans, you can use hot water, but shrinkage may vary. You will lose a lot more length than width from using hot water. Do so at your own risk. Our fabric will typically shrink up to 1" with hot water and/or dryer combo.
you can throw your jeans in the dryer. I do, but I tend to take the out before they're totally dry and let them hang dry the rest of the way. it is possible for the dryer to set cause the fabric to develop fades in a straight line down the leg if they get twisted up too much in the dryer that will be noticeable when dry.
After a year or so, just throw them in the washer and dryer will your normal load of laundry.
The crotch of my jeans blew out, is that normal?
It is 100% normal, although it is caused the most by three things:
- your legs touch when you walk. the simple abrasion makes them thin and eventually a hole develops.
- your jeans are too dirty for too long. dirt and other grime is abrasive to cotton. If your jeans get dirty, wash them whenever possible to keep them from blowing out.
- you wear a slimmer fit. the tighter the denim, the most stress on the fibers, and the more likely they are to break.
There are a plethora of denim repair shops out there or you can repair them yourself.
Our Slub Japanese Canvas is a good bit more durable than denim, so that is a fantastic material to buy instead if you tend to get a lot dirtier than the average person or need something to work in.
Crotch blowouts are considered normal wear and tear and not covered under any sort of warranty. Just get them repaired and keep truckin'.
Will my jeans bleed indigo on light surfaces?
This is called crocking and is quite common for the first few weeks. The darker the indigo, the more likely this is to happen. Please take care around lighter furniture, auto upholstery, or other light clothing. Crocking should stop after the first wash or with a few weeks of daily wear.